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Bingo at the club – Baghdad style

At the Baghdad Hunting Club, guests check their guns, politics and religion at the door.

Outside its high walls, the upscale neighborhood of Mansour has become a gang-land where militias set up roving checkpoints and targeted killings quickly convinced most of the once-fashionable shops to close.

Inside it’s another world.

Elegantly-dressed families come for lunch or dinner, to dance to live music or play tennis. Women come to swim or use the sauna. Teen-age boys hang out in small groups, discreetly checking out teenage girls. There’s even a bar – banned in Saddam’s time.

"People can do what they like here but they can’t talk about religion or politics – those things are dangerous," the club chairman, Husanein Muallah, tells me.

More than 1,000 people come here on Saturdays. Last Saturday afternoon a lot of them were packed into a banquet hall – playing bingo.

'Dumbola!'
It’s a lot like in the U.S. – only people dress up for this. "B-7" the caller announced – in English and Arabic. Children ran through the aisles while their parents, drinking soda and cups of tea, smiled at them indulgently or studied their cards.

At one table, a beautiful woman with glossy long black hair wearing a sequined red T-shirt and scarlet lipstick sits next to a relative with her hair covered in a traditional hijab. The gathering is a microcosm of middle-class Baghdad - the way the streets here used to look before the violence drove people who can afford air-conditioning indoors.

In Saddam’s time, the club was a haunt of Baath party officials and a favorite of Saddam’s thuggish son, Uday, who had a reputation for abducting other people’s wives and daughters.

"A lot of the families, if they had a beautiful daughter or a nice-looking wife, they would be afraid to come to the club," said the club chairman, Husanein Muahllah. Now he says no one is allowed in with weapons. The former members were invited to stay as long as they didn’t bring up politics.

The bingo game is punctuated by laughter and bursts of applause as the winners walk up to the podium. People shout "dumbola!" when someone wins a game instead of "bingo!"

The prizes at this game are mobile phones. But it’s not really the prizes that draw people here.

"We can’t stay at home all the time. We have to go out – especially the children," said Ban Saadi, an elegant Baghdad housewife dressed in a red suit with a silk scarf loosely draped over her hair.

Her son is in college in Jordan. She says she tried living there but came back with her three daughters because she missed Baghdad so much. "Amman is nice, and it’s beautiful and everything is available but a country other than Iraq? Never," she said.

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25 COMMENTS

Bravo Jane; it's been a while since you gave us a picture of Baghdad that didn't involve body parts and bullet holes. It nice to know that people in Iraq understand that politics is dangerous and that life should go on without politics running every moment in it.

Dumbola? I bet they shout that inside the Wuite House too, and I bet W. is a frequent winner! I can understand fluff pieces. We all need distractions from life. This bit of marshmallow is a bit much. Step a few feet outside the Dumbola Hall, and I guarantee that you are target once again. Instead of bingo games, the raw view of war would be nice. Americans need more stories of the misery we are causing, not fewer. We deserve to hear the blunt truth about the failed state of Iraq.

One can only wonder how many of the same people in the "club" playing bingo who can lay down their weapons and politics at the door - will pick them up and brutally murder the same people they laughed with at their table when they leave. And, we are told, all this brutal killing and destruction is because one calls themselves Sunni or Shiite - each claiming their particular form of "the faith" does not teach, preach, endorse violence and murder. A place where children are murdered the same as adults by fellow 'Muslims' - where children are taught to kill and maim almost as soon as they can walk -- And so it would seem to this American that some Iraqis can bask in peace and prosperity and security while the rest of their countrymen are dying. Must like our own Bush and company bask in their prosperity and security while our brave men and women are over there dying and being maimed daily for people who refuse to band TOGETHER for a peaceful Iraq and tolerance for each's particular interpretation of their holy book or faith or whatever excuse they call it to continue to kill each other and turn a blind eye to it if they are not the ones doing the actual killing. How "nice" to know they are having a good time while our men and women are across the world fighting for them and wishing they could be home playing bingo in their hometowns. How are we as Americans supposed to have good feelings toward a people who cannot find it in themselves to have good feelings for EACH OTHER? What a waste of our precious military men and women and our hard earned tax dollars --- for what?

But my government told me there would be no sectarian violence...my government told me that the experts who spoke out in the media had an agenda.

The situation in Iraq was predicted almost perfectly by the real experts on the region. Let the mentally-slow and easily-led clean up this mess. They screamed for it, they got it, they can pay for it.

I'll be doing my best as an educated liberal professional to earn money and pay taxes to *laugh* help pay back the nearly ONE TRILLION DOLLAR WAR DEBT.

You war-supporters who can't earn very much money (i.e. at or below the national average) can do your part by enlisting.

It really galls me that the loudest supporters of this failure in Iraq won't enlist and don't make enough money to really impact the cost of the war...they all seem to be from the poorer southern states which are dependent on Federal Welfare to stay afloat.

Hi Jane,

Admire your courage and writing. Keep it up and your head down. I wish I didn't believe we haven't seen the worse for Iraqi's yet.

Jole,

Isn't the blunt truth the entire picture good and bad? If we deserve to hear the blunt truth, then we should hear all of it, the good and the bad. It is sad that you are so hungry for blood stories. Jane took cue from her readers who asked that she show all sides of it, and recently she has made two posts that show a good side of things that are coming out of Iraq. I applaud her for that, it's a small start, but maybe we will be able to start seeing these kinds of things outside of a small section of their web site and into main stream media someday.

If you want the 'raw view' of the war then just go to the main page of any major news outlet. "This bit of marshmallow" is a group of people's only hope at having a normal Saturday in relative peace. So while it may just be "fluff" to you, try to look at it from their eyes.

Ask anyone who's been to war, or lived in a war zone, it's those little things that keep you sane enough to live another day. It's that letter from home that still smells like your wife, or that field you drive by that reminds you of home, or being able to have one day in a week where you can let yourself be less alert to enjoy a few drinks and watch your kids play with other kids.

http://tlocfym.blogspot.com

Jane--How in the world do these people get to the club--safely? Duded-up like that, you would think they would be targets for the militias or abducted for ransom. And they bring their children also? Aren't they afraid for them?

So what about the killings and/or attempted killings in the USA just over sports? I'm talking about the revenge of Steinbrenner-by-airplane activities since his team let him down: first his pitcher and then the attempt upon the life of A-Rod..... I'll bet the NTSB will look all over for the obvious "pilot errors" and "aircraft design errors" and not even look into the King George connection because he was in Florida at the time. I just bet.....

Looks like you are doing your Party Loyalty move at elections time. Mr. Bush does not allow the showing of the confines coming home, but you want to show a Bingo Parlor. I hope this gets you some Vote, because I would hate to waste one Soldier’s life that helps keep those doors open.
I guess you are one of those believers that thinks are going great in Iraq.

Jane; that was a good story which it didn't include any killing for a story coming out of Baghdad..! I think that's good for a change every once in a while. But I wonder how do they party over there with less than 3 hours a day worth of electricity..!!!

jj,
We have yet to hear the "real" story on MSM. We hear watered down bits and pieces. Yes, this fluff piece is marshmallowy. It is a one-sided view of a very bad scene. In order to hear the real story, one must visit non-MSM sites. It is time the MSM step forward and tell the truth about what is happening in both Iraq and Afghanistan. If you see it differently, have a mallomar and enjoy! I would rather have just the truth, thank you.

Good article Jane.

The problem is Iraq has gotten so politicised that some people will attack you for showing anything that isn't negative and some people will attack you for showing anything that is positive.

But, both needs to be shown and these partisan jokers who care more about winning political points then peoples lives need to wake up.

Dear Jane,

For as grim as the reality is -and one sees plenty of that on TV- I agree with those writing in who like to also see stories about regular people coping with, and enjoying as much as possible, life in these times. The stories which focus on women, in particular, strike a chord. It's easy to forget about the women when the men so often are the ones making the most noise ... and a huge number of us females take great interest in how women in other cultures, countries, etc. live and what kinds of relationships they have with their friends, families and co-workers.

I watch the cold hard reports with just as much interest, but am glad when reporters on their journeys from station to station spend time taking notes on the other realities. Thanks!

Jane,
I saw your report about this on the Nightly News. I loved it! It was so nice to see a side of Iraq that was joyful. It must be very difficult to maintain a sense of normalcy amongst all the death and violence and upheaval. The fact that some Iraqis have hope gives me hope.

If only what happpens inside the club happens outside. There is a chance and hope because it does happen. At least it is a start. Now if we only do what they did. Put our politcal diverences aside

Jane,
It's surreal isn't it? I've done two tours in Iraq before retiring exactly one year ago. I close my eyes and can still remember all too clearly the smells, the sights and the contradictions that happen daily over there. People need to understand all aspects of life in that country, not just the doom and gloom seen on the nightly news. I get a kick out of the people who say this isn't Vietnam all over again. Seems to me that Baghdad of today close to what Saigon must have been like in the sixties. Keep your head down and if you ever need an experianced combat cameraman, give me a yell. I think I miss the rush.

Possibly I'm mistaken, but isn't the Baghdad Hunting Club where Ahmad Chalabi set up shop upon his triumpahnt return to Baghdad? I seem to recall he held press conferences in the lobby. And where is old Ahmad these days, anyway? We don't hear much from him anymore. Tehran, maybe?

Jane,

The deaths and other heart-wrenching material covered in Iraq is not too much for the public. But it would be nice to see some balance with what GOOD we are doing over there. Yes, there is some good. In most areas (obviously, the ones not mentioned as much) there are schools and commercial buildings being erected by our Corps of Engineers, roadways and utilities revamped so to bring a more stable and secure environment than before. Schools, hospitals, houses, all rebuilt and built to last... not those make-shift tent homes most used to live in. Yes, we hear tons of info about Baghdad and other areas which are inflamed, and most likely will be for a long time. But who is reporting on the kids? Their well-being that has been upgraded? I have had 5 friends killed in Iraq... before their deaths, they spoke frequently of the translators, citizens, kids, and other Iraqi nationals whom they have become friends with. These people sent flowers, cards and other wishes to their families back here in the US when they were killed. We are doing good. A lot of good. It just goes unnoticed. People need to remember there are two sides to a war. Always have been, always will be.

Jane,
I have just finished reading your article and a few of the comments made and must add to those who think anyone who isn't directly realated to any soldier serving in Iraq. I don't think it's an issue about reports about our fallen diminishing. I think it's a situation where if there's nothing you can do to help it's not something you want to be reminded about daily. Yes there's a war, we read and see news about it all day long. With war comes death, by the hundreds to thousands, daily. But what can we do about it? Reading more about our fallen doesn't help us survive day to day. We have to continue to live the life we were given and make a living as expected. It's not that we're being insensitive or that we want to forget it all. But overall even if we see or read about the fallen everyday what difference would it make? It will only depress and hurt everyone everyday. Do we really want that? I say send the daily reports to President Bush and all those who re-elected him and back this war. It's there hands that run red with our blood. I'm sure all of America only want to heasr one report. That's the WAR IS OVER!
God bless all those who risk there lives everyday for our freedom.

I know I did not just read that!!!! I live in the South, I am professional, I earn a very good salary, I pay my taxes and have never depended on welfare in my Life, Sean. I am fairly conservative, but the subject here is not necessarily supporting the steps to War in Irag, but to support the "boys and girls in blue" or "green", or "tan" or any color that signifies the fight for our freedom. Jane's story just establishes the headway that our American soldiers have done in this war. I agree that these people (there is always some in every group), not all of them, have no respect for human life. However, there was the Iragi physician and nurse that helped us rescue one of our troops from being another Iragi prisoner, and took a major risk to do so. There are the women and children that are innocent and only trying to live in the only world they know. Before we judge, and that would mean either the Iragi people or your own Americans (yes, some of us live in the south) I would be sure that I had my own life in order. Are we always kind to others, forgiving, nonjudgemental, generous? Maybe a few questions you might want to ask before you take your anger with yourself out on others! Thanks Jane for reporting another side to Irag, and the possibility that the loss of Life was not for nothing. That our troops are making headway, even if it is to give a few people, a few moments of peace, a few smiles, and the slight feel of what it means to be free.

Don't hang Sadda. We may need him...

Jane, I didn't know that something like that even existed in Iraq. Your article showed me convincingly that there is another side: There are women and children who want to live a normal life. At the moment that is impossible in Iraq. I wish that normalcy would return to Iraq.
¿Can you write a report on the Christians there? That would interest me very much: How they are getting along in that upheavel?
Like some people said, I also want to say: Keep your head down and continue your work. Almighty God protect you.
Günter A. Weber, Ohio

Nixon sent me sailing off the coast of Vietnam in "73 and "75...the active draft ended while I was in bootcamp; (I predict a reoccurrence soon)... just as in VietNam, we will have made no difference in Iraq ;looking back after 30 years...maybe we need more learned historians as leaders?

There certainly are two sides to every story and the media has given us only one side for the most part. I have talked with young men who have served in Iraq. Many of them voluntarily return for a second tour because they know that they are making a difference. If those who have been there have so much hope, why does the media in general paint a picture of complete hopelessness? I think the media has as much blood on its hands for aiding and abetting the war as any politician. We knew when we went into Iraq that the struggle would be hard, but too many comfortable Americans think that freedom should be dispensed instantly like instant coffee. It took eight years of bloody struggle for the United States to win the right to freedom, but people think it should be done in Iraq in a matter of weeks. I'm sure there were many in 1773 and 1774 who thought we should give up. I'm sure George Washington was berated by the sideline critics of his day too.

Linda nobody expects weeks but its been 3+ years.....I enjoy/respect/appreciate our democratic system but why do and why would we force people to love our system when they've been operating without democracy for thousands of years....your confusing willing participants with forced "democracy"

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